ArchAngel Appliance - Serving WNC -
24 HR Voice Service

Have you ever gone to cook something and noticed your stove/oven just not heating like it used to? How about the lady we helped this week who went to clean her oven and upon touching the element it actually disintegrated in her hands! Wowzers, now that element really kicked the bucket!!!

You know oven elements just don't last forever. All that heat and cool, heat and cool tends to take an affect on metal! So, for those of you Do-It-Yourselfers here is a quick list on how to replace your oven element yourself.

How to Remove and Replace the Element

1. First you will need to find your model number and manufacturer name. There is a page on our main website at www.archangelappliancerepair.com that can help you with this.
2. Next, go to Sears.com and check out their parts page using your model number. You can get the parts number you need here but I would order it from a different source.... expensive there. You can also see their diagrams of each model as well. You can phone us if you need assistance with this too as we will be selling parts soon.
3. ALWAYS Turn off the power to the oven at the breaker box and unplug the oven.
4. Next you want to remove the screws that secure the element to the oven and pull it four or five inches away from the wall (back wall).
5. Unscrew the screws that hold the wires to the prongs on the element. Make sure and pay attention to the way your wires are attached so you can reattach the new element in the same manner.
6. Yah! Now you can install your new oven element. Attach the wires as they were before making sure to secure the element to the back wall.
7. Last you can plug your oven back in and turn on the breaker.

It's a good idea to test your work. Sometimes the new element smokes a bit on the first heating. This is just a factory coating being burned off. So there are no worries there. I usually don't use it for cooking until I've let it cycle through at least one good time.

I hope that helped all you Do-It-Yourselfers!

God bless and Food for Thought,

ArchAngel

We Want You!!!

I have been thinking... what if we had a mini class on some small Do It Yourself ideas and how to's on how to keep your appliance working to peak performance... Any takers???

I don't know about you but I am a hands on and visual learner.

I can read and read but give me a picture or actual chance to work something, it sticks in my mind. So I thought this might really help some folks!

If there is a high interest, I will begin the plans on the course and set up a meeting place.

Would love to hear your thoughts!

Food for thought,

ArchAngel

Garbage Disposer Tips

Do's and Don't when utilizing a garbage disposer, some things you may never think of:

Do:

Run cold water while grinding wastes.

Yes, grind beef bones, chicken bones, peach pits.

Sniff Sniff....Grind lemon or orange peels to eliminate odors!

Always let water and disposer run for several seconds after grinding is complete to clean out unwanted particles.

Grind ice to clean the blades and impeller.

Don't:

NEVER reach into the disposer with your hand, use tongs and only when the unit is unplugged. Many people have lost fingers this way!!!

Do not grind fibrous foods like corn husks, artichokes, banana peels or celery.... fibers get caught between your blades and cause major issues with the functioning of the mechanisms. When in doubt, check your manual.

Do not operate the disposer without running water!

Do not use hot water for grinding, it melts fats which later may clog the drain... a plumber's nightmare!

Do not grind coffee grounds. They aren't a problem for the disposer but they build in the pipes which can cost you money down the line....

Food for thought.....

ArchAngel

Friday, June 12, 2009

DIY Question: My Kenmore washer.....

DIY Question: My older model Kenmore washer starts cycle normally and stops working right before it should drain and agitate. What could be the problem and can I fix it myself?

Answer: It sounds like you have a bad lid switch. A lid switch could cost between $15-30 depending on your specific model and can be switched out fairly easily if you are mechanically inclined... Note "mechanically" inclined.

On Kenmores, Top Load washers, you would start by removing the two screws in the console and some are under the front two trim pieces of the console, or one on each side in the back of the console. Lift console forward and flip over. The lid switch harness is generally in plain view which depending on your model the connection should be off right center behind the lid. In newer models, the lid switch is in the back left corner. The lid must be raised to remove the lid switch. Simply remove and replace with new lid switch.

On an older model, after lifting lid, two phillips head screws should be in the mid to back of unit's top lip opening. For the older one you will need to remove the connection wire to the lid switch and the two bronze clips found on either side of the unit cabinet. Then you will need to pull forward on the cabinet to get underneath to remove the 5/16th ground wire screw found under top of the cabinet. Next, replace these items with the new lid switch.

**Always be sure your appliance is unplugged before beginning any and all work!

And as always........ fix it don't trash it!!!

If you find yourself in a pickle.... give us a call! We can assist you!

Good luck and hope that helps!

Food for thought.....

ArchAngel

Range- Repair or Replace?

Kitchen range - repair or replace?

What is the true life of a kitchen range? Mine needs some repair and I don't know whether I should fix it or replace it. Thanks.

This is a cut and dry question/ answer...

Manufacturers give an expectant life of eight to ten years for a modern appliance. What the manufacturers won't tell you, however, is depending on oven features you may only get six. I suggest first sending me a little more information on what issue you are having with the range. You can only make a sound decision once you know the cost of repairing your appliance versus purchasing a new one. There are quite a few variables you must consider... we would need the model number and more info on what is going on with your range.... Here at ArchAngel we always would prefer you repair your current appliance and keep it out of the landfill, but this is not always feasible especially where costs are concerned.

We can repair your range for a flat fee of $90 plus the price of parts. We never inflate our parts price either.

Send us that info and we can further help you figure this out. Thanks for the question!

Food for thought,

ArchAngel

Wet Towels!!!

Don't ya just hate it when you stick your hand in the dryer expecting warm fluffy fresh towels and find a cold wet massive lump instead? What a way to ruin a perfectly good thought of showering... I don't know about you, but especially in the summer when I've been working in the yard or garden and I'm looking forward to an awesome shower... I like my towels fluffy, smelling fresh, inviting, and ready to sop me up! My wife and I have four children whom live at our house all the time and there are days she pops the towels in the dryer and attends to other chores... trust me, this has happened to me on more than one occasion! And, fellas, it isn't always her fault for not turning it on for a long enough period of time... could be something wrong with the machine! Let's see what's up...

So, for all you Do It Yourselfers out there, here are three tips to get you in the right direction to dry towels. First, you have to observe a few things to number down some possible causes because your drum belt might be broken or cracked, your heating element could be going out, or the vent itself could be stopped up.

First, test your drum and see if it is turning freely. Try and spin it by hand. It should turn but you want to feel some noticeable resistance. If it feels like it's spinning easily, your drive belt is probably over worn, stretched or broken.

If the belt checks out alright, try drying a couple of wet towels next. Use a setting which should produce the full amount of heat. Let the dryer run for about ten minutes while you take care of other chores. If the clothes are just only a little warm to the touch, you probably have a heating element malfunction which you will need to make a call to the appliance repair technician (me ) to change. After ten minutes you should see a noticeable fluffing and warmth to the towels. They should be quite hot actually, especially when you only put a couple in. I never recommend Do It Yourselfers to change their own heating element. It just is simply a repair that a fully trained person should complete. Thousands of dryers every year cause fires... which leads me to an aside thought. Never ever ever ever dry your clothes when you are not home, not even just doing yard work. You need to be near to your dryer so you can take care of issues quickly if there was a fire. I also suggest keeping a fire extinguisher in the general vicinity of your dryer. They look like calm little appliances... but you should hear some stories of what I've seen!

If neither of these are the answer, then you probably are having trouble with your vent. First, check your lint trap and make sure it is properly cleaned. Next, go outside while your machine is running and see if there is a good amount of air coming out. If there is not much air coming out, you could have one of two problems. Either your dryer's vent fan isn't working properly or your vent pipe is plugged. Go back inside and take the pipe off the wall. While running, if there is air flowing out of the pipe then your fan is fine and your vent line needs inspection. We here at ArchAngel can clean your vents for you for a small fee if you don't want to do this. If there is no air coming out and you believe it is the fan, we can also do that for you as well.

If you want to give it a whirl and clean your vents...Check your vent pipe from one end to the other and take out all necessary debris. This can be a nasty nasty job. I always wear a mouth allergy cover... ugh yucky. -I also recommend simply purchasing a new pipe. I know, not environmentally friendly... but if you have a metal one you can recycle it. It is good to replace the line altogether though as fires are caused by thousands of these a year. It is also more efficient for your machine to keep your vents cleaned. Just easier and safer to go ahead and replace it.

A little preventative maintenance is nice as well.... keeping the lent trap clean and vents clean helps your machine run smooth for a much longer time. Don't put unecessary pressure on your heating element and other parts. Remember, your machine works for you so you work for it!

If you do these simple things you will have nice and inviting towels every time you go for some... we are so spoiled nowadays, I couldn't stand to not have my smokin hot towels!

Hope that helps! Food for thought,

ArchAngel

Mystery Continued.....

Cont'd from post before.....most excellent reading if you are into DIY work!!!

THIS IS WHERE I FLY OFF ON A TANGENT:

Actually, not to put too fine a point on it, but once the defrost cycle is over, the defrost timer DOESN'T actually turn on the compressor and fan. That's because the fridge might not need any cooling right then. At the end of the defrost cycle, the defrost timer restores power to the fridge's thermostat (more correctly called a "cold control"). The thermostat then closes the circuit to the fridge's compressor and evaporator fan only if the fridge needs cooling.

In the rest of this post, the word "thermostat" will be used for both the cold control and the defrost thermostat, but it should be obvious from the context which thermostat is being referred to.

So, the defrost timer switches power between the defrost heater and the fridge's thermostat (or "cold control"), and the thermostat then inturrupts that power or allows it to flow to the compressor and evaporator fan simultaneously.

So, typically, both the evaporator fan and the compressor motor will both be running (or both be not running) at the same time. If the compressor is running, but you don't detect any breeze whatsoever in the freezer compartment with your hand (or by the smoke rising from a lit cigarette or piece of smoldering cotton string), then it indicates a problem with the evaporator fan not working, and therefore no cold air being blown into the freezer and fresh food compartments.

Similarily, if the evaporator fan is blowing air, but the compressor is not running, it could be a problem with the compressor motor, perhaps the starting relay which starts the compressor motor.

Having the compressor and the evaporator fan both off at the same time is normal. The fridge may be cold and the thermostat has shut off the cooling circuit. Alternatively, the fridge could be in a defrost cycle. However, if both the compressor and evaporator fan are off for what seems like an unreasonably long time, and the food in your freezer is starting to melt, then there's a good liklihood that the defrost timer is STUCK in defrost mode.

AND THIS IS WHERE I COME BACK TO THE SUBJECT AT HAND.

The defrost timer location will be different on every fridge, so you have to find out where it is on your make and model.

Defrost timers will have their output shaft exposed so that if you mark the position of the shaft on the timer with a felt pen, you can check it an hour or two later to confirm that the timer shaft is turning. Also, having the output shaft of the timer exposed allows an appliance repairman to manually advance the defrost timer to check the operation of the defrost heater and defrost thermostat to see if they're working. This is normally done by turning the output shaft of the defrost timer with a screw driver, but since you can damage the timer by turning that shaft backwards the screwdriver slot will be designed in such a way that the shaft can really only be turned in one direction with a screw driver.

If you ever notice that your frost free fridge has suddenly stopped working completely, it's worth advancing the defrost timer to see if the fridge is stuck in defrost mode. If you hear a "click" and the fridge comes back to life, then the problem was that the defrost timer was stuck, probably in the defrost mode. That tells you it's a good idea to replace your defrost timer before that happens again.

If, on the other hand, if the defrost timer is stuck in the "run" mode, or the defrost heater isn't working, the usual result will be frost forming around the cold air vents in the freezer compartment, and frost forming in your frost free fridge's freezer compartment. In that case, advance the defrost timer until the compressor and fan shut off, indicating that the defrost timer is now diverting power to the defrost heater instead. Try manually advancing the defrost timer to perform several defrost cycles in a row to melt the accumulated frost. If doing that doesn't help, then the defrost heater is probably not working and needs to be replaced. Normally, a repairman will also replace the defrost thermostat at the same time as he replaces the defrost heater because the cost of the defrost thermostat is only 2 or 3 dollars. So, replaceing it at the same time as the defrost heater is mostly a matter of preventative maintenance. Those 2 or 3 dollars could save a $50 or $60 service call a few months down the road.

Finally, if you ever see water dripping from the roof of the fresh food compartment of your frost free fridge, the problem is that the melt water from the defrost cycle isn't draining away. Most often the problem here is that dirt has clogged the drain hole in the drip pan under the evaporator coils. There will normally be a cover of some type in the freezer compartment of your fridge. Removing that cover exposes the fan and evaporator coil (which is easily damaged because of all the thin aluminum fins covering it's surface). By poking a flexible (stranded) wire into the drain hole of the drip pan under the evaporator coil, you can usually unclog the drain hole and allow the melt water to drain away as it should.

IF YOU DON'T READ ANYTHING ELSE, READ THE FOLLOWING:

SO, If you come home from work on a friday afternoon and discover your fridge has decided to quit working, proceed as follows:

0. If it's winter, store the perishibles in the trunk of your car to keep them frozen. Keep the fridge door closed as much as possible to keep the interior of the fridge cold.

1. Does the fridge light come on when you open the door. If not, then the fridge isn't getting power.

2. If there's power to the fridge, listen to see if the compressor is running at all.

3. If the compressor is running, try to detect a breeze in the freezer compartment. If there's no breeze, the problem is that the fan isn't turning.

4. If the compressor isn't running, but the fan is, then the problem is most likely the compressor's start relay or something called the "start capacitor" or the "run capacitor" which the compressor motor needs to start.

5. If neither the compressor nor fan are running, then the fridge may be stuck in defrost mode and the prime suspect is the defrost timer. If you know where it is on your fridge, advance the defrost timer manually by turning the output shaft with a screw driver.

6. If the fridge doesn't spring to life now, then you've covered 90 percent of the most common problems, and it's time to call a repairman.

IF YOU DON'T READ ANYTHING ELSE, READ THE ABOVE.

It's standard practice to replace the defrost thermostat whenever the defrost heater is replaced. That's because it's an inexpensive part, and replacing it whenever the defrost heater is replaced is good preventive maintenance.

Normally, the defrost timer is only replaced as needed. However, since it's the "brains" behind a frost free fridge, I think it's a good idea to replace the defrost timer every 10 years or so. If you wait for a sale, you can buy defrost timers for under $10 each. If you have to buy one in a hurry, you're looking at $20. If you have to pay to get your fridge fixed in a hurry, the company fixing your fridge will prolly charge you about $35 for it. It's best to replace it every 10 years or so for about $10 a pop.

"Mystery of your frost free fridge revealed"

I love to read advice and information from other folks in the field. You can learn so much when you are open to information and a little constructive criticism. So, that said, here is a post I found on the net that was absolutely wonderful! It is written in laymen's terms so most everybody can get it. It gets better as it goes too....I have the writer's credit at the end...Good job and well done Nestor!

Enjoy!

ArchAngel

The mystery of your frost free fridge revealed:

or "What every owner of a frost free fridge should know":

The way to tell the difference between a frost free fridge and a manual defrost fridge is that a frost free fridge will have separate freezer and fresh food compartments, whereas a manual defrost fridge will have a freezer box at the top of the fresh food compartment. The fundamental difference between a "frost free" fridge and a manual defrost fridge is that a frost free fridge has an automatic method of defrosting itself.

In a manual defrost fridge the refrigerant evaporates and absorbs heat as it flows through the channels molded right into the evaporator box at the top of the fresh food compartment. Since the refrigerant is evaporating in those molded channels, the evaporator box will be the coldest thing in a manual defrost fridge, and that is where frost will accumulate. You defrost such a fridge by unplugging it or turning the thermostat to "defrost" or "off" and waiting for the frost on the freezer compartment to melt.

In a frost free fridge, there will be an evaporator coil which is hidden out of sight which serves the same purpose as the "freezer box" in a manual defrost fridge. The refrigerant evaporates in that evaporator coil, absorbing heat as it does, thereby making the evaporator coil very cold. There will also be an "evaporator fan" which sucks air through that evaporator coil and blows most of the cold air into the freezer compartment, and a little of it into the fresh food compartment. Some frost free fridges have adjustable baffles that allow you to set the proportion of cold air sent to each compartment. The reason why the freezer compartment gets colder than the fresh food section is because it normally has more cold air flow through it.

Every time you open the door of the fresh food compartment or freezer compartment of your fridge, you let some cold dry air out of your fridge and some warm moist air in. The moisture in the air you let in is what causes frost to form on the freezer compartment of a manual defrost fridge or the evaporator coils of a frost free fridge. Ice and frost forming on the evaporator coils of a frost free fridge reduce the efficiency of the fridge because they act as insulation and prevent heat transfer between the cold aluminum coils and the air the evaporator fan is circulating over those coils and throughout the fridge. And, of course, frost reduces the amount of air flow through the coils.

This "automatic defrost system" consists of three components: the defrost timer, the defrost heater and the defrost thermostat. These three components work together to melt the frost off the evaporator coil.

Let's look at each of the three components in the automatic defrosting system of a typical frost free fridge:

1. THE DEFROST TIMER:

Just like you have a timer in a clothes washer that controls the valves and motors at each stage of the clothes washing cycle, every frost free fridge will have a defrost timer. The defrost timer in a frost free fridge is much simpler than the timers in washing machines or dish washers because there are fewer things in a frost free fridge for the timer to control. The defrost timer's job is to shut off the fridge's compressor and evaporator fan (together) for about 20 to 35 minutes every 8 to 12 hours and divert the power to the defrost heater instead.

2. THE DEFROST HEATER:

The defrost heater is just an electric coil heater that's positioned close to the evaporator coils so the radiant heat melts the frost off the evaporator coils. The melt water then drips down and is carried by a sloping drip pan to a drain. A rubber hose usually running along the back of the fridge carries this melt water down into a receiving pan sitting on top of, or around, the usually warm compressor motor. The water is then re-evaporated back into the room by the waste heat from the compressor. You can redirect this melt water into a drain and use your frost free fridge to dehumidify your house a little.

3. THE DEFROST THERMOSTAT:

Once the frost is all melted off the evaporator coils, continued heating results in a rapid rise in temperature in the vicinity of the evaporator coils. The job of the defrost thermostat is to detect that temperature rise and break the circuit to the defrost heater, thereby preventing further heating and possible damage to the plastic and foam parts near it. (This is normally accomplished by simply wiring the defrost thermostat in series with the defrost heater.) Once the defrost thermostat breaks the circuit to the defrost heater, the fridge will then just sit there and do nothing at all until the end of the defrost cycle when the defrost timer shuts off power to the defrost circuit and restores power to the compressor and fan circuit once again.

THIS IS WHERE I FLY OFF ON A TANGENT...

This web site's server is telling me the post is too long, so I will continue it in another post to follow...

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Last edited by Nestor_Kelebay; 07-10-2008 at 01:29 AM.

http://www.diychatroom.com/f47/help-my-admiral-refrigerator-leaking-water-23441/

Monday, June 29, 2009

DIY Repair a Leaking Washing Machine

What do you do when you find that your washing machine is leaking? You could call and have us, ArchAngel Appliance Repair, come and fix it for you or you could simply purchase a new machine. Whether you have us come and fix it for you... costing $90 plus parts (unless in our intro period where you would get $30 off), or whether you buy another machine... you could end up spending your hard earned money.

You could just try and fix it yourself though! Below we will give you in layman's terms a quick response on how to fix your leak yourself! You will find out about hose, pump and tub leaks.

Different machines tend to have different problems. It is kind of like buying cars. Some brands produce lemons. And, you would be surprised that it is not always the more affordable brands that are lemon makers!

Ok, here goes!

First, you want to make sure that your floor drain is not plugged up with debris. Believe it or not, this could be a simple fix! We go on SOOOO many calls only to find this easy answer.

Washing machines come in two forms, the belt drive and the direct drive.

Upon opening the back of your machine.. pretty simple, just screws and screwdriver necessary... if you see belts then you've got a belt driven machine. If you don't, well then you've got a direct driven machine.

This picture is a belt driven machine.

If you have a direct drive machine, your owners manual should have pictures of the components in it. I'm sorry I just don't have a nice pic available and besides each looks different. Each one is different so you will need to refer to your owner's manual for diagrams. Also, there should be a number there to order parts. You may also call ArchAngel Appliance Repair and we can order parts for you or give you the number of our supplier.

The first thing you will want to do is replace any hoses you find that are leaking water. Make sure you emptied the washing machine of all clothing/ washing materials. Ok, now you want to move the machine away from the wall so you can watch what is going on and start a cycle. Look for drips around the supply hose from the wall. If you notice corrosion, cracks, or rusty hoses you definitely want to replace the no matter if you see leaks or not. Water and Electricity don't mix! Best to be safe and replace. If your hoses are fine I recommend replacing the internal washers at least... just another precaution. Since you are back there you might as well nip any bud that needs nipping! You can also check out your local home appliance part store or order through us special hoses. They make numerous types that 'promise' to not burst. Hoses cost anywhere from 6-20 dollars so that is much cheaper than new flooring.

The first step is to locate the source of the leak. Replacing the supply hoses is the easiest fix so we will start there.

Empty the washing machine, move it away from the wall and start the fill cycle. Look for drips around the water supply hose connection at the back of the machine while it fills with water. Shut off the water and replace any old, heavily corroded or rusted hoses with new ones. If the hoses are in good shape, replace the internal washers only. Special no-burst hoses ($10), regular hoses ($6) and new hose washers ($2 per 10-pack) are available at home centers and hardware stores. Replacing them is very easy. They go on just like they come off! You will only need a set of adjustable pliers and a screw driver. Make sure to replace the gaskets with new ones while your'e at it....

Replacing the internal hoses would be the next issue if you see no leaks or issues with your supply hoses. Remember earlier we were talking about the two different types of machines? Well here is where that comes into play. If you opened your machine earlier when we were figuring this out, well then you won't need this info. If not... here is how to open your machine:: The belt drive machines usually have rear access panels that simply unscrew. So if this is you, go for it! Open that puppy up! If not, and you have a direct drive machine well then remove the two screws on the outside of the control panel and flip up the lid. You can then pull up the cabinet clips and take off the entire cabinet. Sounds tricky, huh? Well, it really isn't just sounds tricky. Next you want to start a cycle and watch for leaks. If you don't see leaks right away look for other clues that tell you there has been a leak. Remember, the weather makes air expand and contract. Your hoses can do the same thing depending on the temperature. Look for calcium and rust deposits. Where there is water, there will be deposits. It's kinda like my kiddos. Where there are children, there will be a long trail of fingerprints! The picture shows where you will find leaks most times too, or signs of leaks.

Do not touch your machine while running water or working a cycle! Simply watch. And, Always Always Always unplug the machine before making any repairs once you find the leaky culprit!

Now, most hoses are applied using something called a spring clamp. You remove these with your pliers. Look for leaks around these clamps. I suggest going ahead and nipping more buds by replacing these spring clamps with worm-drive clamps. You can get these at most local part suppliers. If you notice your hose is indeed cracked you will need a new one of those as well. You can order one through us if you need. Just get your model number and give us a call. If you have trouble finding your model number look on our website at http://www.archangelappliancerepair.com or click here: Visit My Website It looks like alot of reading but there are pictures below the intro info.

Now here is a tip. If you go to www.searspartsdirect.com. you will be able to find diagrams for your specific appliance. We never recommend actually purchasing from them though as the prices are a little steep. We use a supplier out of Spartanburg and Greenville and have software linked with them where we can see this information, but as an individual if you need diagrams and part numers using the Sears site works perfect. All you need is your model number and brand!

Another tip is if you are going to make face to face contact with a parts dealer, copy all your info on your model number plate. You never know what you may need and this can save you a trip. Some appliances require extra digits that others do not.

The next thing that may be leaking is your pump. Now, there isn't an easy way for me to tell you to replace this... we appliance guys just look at it and know. Now, this can be a very very challenging repair to do yourself and I only recommend for the true Do It Yourselfers with a good amount of tool experience. Depending on your brand and model you will need to study the drawings you have in your owners manual or by going to the Sears site I recommended earlier. You WILL NOT receive directions when you order parts. Remember that! The best advice I can give you is pay attention to how you take it apart and write notes. Then, just do the reverse on putting on the new pump. So, in the event you order parts and find you can't put the parts on, we can help you if you need. Just call us.

The last thing that could be causing your leak is worn out tub fittings. Again, this is not an easy repair. This is in my opinion the most challenging repair. You may need a new air dome seal, center post gasket, or tub seal itself. Each of these parts range in the $5 to $30 range.

If you have drips coming from around your tub, the tub seals are the issue and must be replaced. If the leaking occurs only when the machine is agitating, a bad center post gasket (“doughnut”) is causing your leak. Remove the outer tub to replace the center post gasket. While you’re at it, replace the air dome seal as well. Reassemble the washing machine and run a test cycle. If you still have leaks the last thing to do is...

Again, you will need drawings and info from your parts supplier. You will also need a special wrench to complete the task of replacing these parts. You can get one for a bout $20. This is called a Spanner Wrench. You'll need the top of your machine open....You can open the top of many machines by releasing the spring catches. However, on others you have to unscrew several screws and lift off the entire cabinet. Look in your owner’s manual or at a parts diagram. (See the manufacturer’s Website ) You’ll have to unscrew the water inlet and the tub snubber before unclipping the ring. Fastening systems for these vary by brand, as do attachment methods for the agitator and inner tub.

There are four tub seals which secure the outer tub to the cabinet itself. Each one has a bolt with a rubber and metal washer. Sometimes rust collects around one of these seals and causes a leak. You can get a new tub seal kit and it will contain four new bolts along with a oversized rubber and metal washer for each that will seal small leaks. If you see only one leaking, fine, but go ahead and replace all four to be careful and again, nip those buds! You may also find that the tub is completely rusted through which would mean you need a new tub or machine. This is a decision based mainly on price of the tub versus price of a new machine. Each brand is different. We promote fixing your machine and keeping them out of landfills..... but the choice in the end is yours.

WELL! I don't know about your but I'm just about beat after all that writing! If you wanna give it a go and fix your own washer leak I hope this info helps. If you have any other questions just give me a holler at my blog or on my website and as always,

OH, one last thought......if you are looking into buying a new machine, I strongly advise a simple top loader. Those darned new confangled front loaders are much more trouble than they are worth. You can't go wrong with the simple versions.

Food for Thought,

ArchAngel

Monday, July 6, 2009

Do you ever wonder, what Brand do I buy? What size or how many extras do I want on my new appliance? Well....We are ultra busy servicing calls & I won't have much time this week to write a new blog. So the next four or five posts are going to be some awesome info that I found on US Appliance's website. Buying Guides! Everybody loves great buying guide tips! Also, if you have a question on what to buy don't hesitate to phone us. We have a cell and if we are out on a call we can call you right back.

The pictures show up on our main blog but we can't post them here.  Sorry.  The main blog is at http://archangelappliancerepair.blogspot.com/

Food for thought,

ArchAngel

US Appliance's website is comprehensive and complete. Enjoy reading!

http://www.us-appliance.com/rabugu.html

Before you buy a Kitchen Range take a few moments to read our range buying guide for some important tips and ideas.

A range is essentially two appliances in one. A set of burners sits on top of the unit with an oven integrated below.

Most models provide consistently good performance and flexible features for multiple cooking purposes and are generally less expensive than comparable gas models. They allow you to maintain very low heat which is not always possible on some gas models. It can be more difficult to regulate temperature with electric heat than with gas.

Electric ranges use two types of cooktop heat:

Standard Coil Burner. The coil sits above the range top surface or into a recessed cavity. The coils are more vulnerable to spills but drip pans capture spills and are generally easy to access, remove and clean. These units are usually less expensive.

Smooth-Top Electric Ranges. The radiant elements are installed beneath a glass surface presenting a sleek integrated appearance. These cooktops are easy to clean. The radiant elements heat quickly and evenly.

Gas Ranges

Gas range burners allow you select different levels of heat which can cool down or heat up cookware almost instantly, offering more precise temperature control. They are typically more expensive than comparable electric models, but are usually cheaper to operate.

Higher quality gas ranges offer special burners for fast high output heat for quick boiling or searing. They also offer burners that hold a gentle low heat for simmering sauces and liquids.

Many models feature sealed gas burners which make clean-up easier and prevent food from being trapped under the burners.

You will need a gas hookup to either a natural gas source or to a LP (liquid propane supply tank)

Duel-Fuel Gas and Electric ranges

Dual fuel ranges combine the instant response of gas burners and the even heat of an electric oven.

Commercial Style Home Ranges

Commercial style ranges are becoming increasingly popular and offer a variety of options catering to the needs of even the most demanding cooks.

Ventilation

Ventilation is a key consideration when purchasing a range. The vent can be a microwave hood combination, but, higher performing ranges may require an overhead hood with internal or external blowers.

Browse our Selection of Ranges

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Consider the number of people that you typically cook for. If you cook frequently or for large numbers, a large capacity range and oven may be your best choice. Ranges are available in multiple sizes for just about any cooking requirement.

Heat Output: Most gas ranges have four or more burners whose output measured in Btu/hr (British thermal units) A range with at least one high output burner is recommended (Approx 15,000 or more Btu/hr.) Medium and Low Output burner options are also available to cover a variety of cooking needs.

The output of electric burners are typically measured in Watts. The higher the number the faster your food will cook.

Ranges come in a variety of sizes. 30 inch ranges are standard although larger commercial style ranges come in widths or 36, 48, or even 60"

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Freestanding ranges do not need to be fitted into cabinetry and have finished sides.

Slide-in ranges fit into the space between cabinets and do not have finished sides.

Drop-in ranges also fit into cabinetry and usually rest on top of a toe kick plate matching the rest of the cabinetry.

At US Appliance we offer a tremendous variety of beautiful kitchen ranges with stylish and sophisticated looks, innovative features and real cooking performance.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Today's Ranges offer a wide selection of features. Here are some to consider.

Electronic temperature controls allow for more accurate cooking temperatures

Self-cleaning ovens eliminate the need for strong smelling sprays and scrubbing.

Programmable timing options allow you to preset your oven to automatically turn on and off to cook your meals even when you are not present.

Convection Ovens cook about 30% faster than conventional ovens. Fans in the oven circulate the heat around foods to cook them faster.

Simmer burners provide low, gradual heat when required for a variety of cooking needs such as preparing soups and sauces. Once a draw-back when cooking with gas, better gas ranges offer precise low temperature control.

High-heat burners instantly provide cooking heat allowing you to quickly boil or sear foods as required, dramatically cutting down on cooking time. On some high-end ranges you can find burner output exceeding an incredible 17,500 Btu/hr.

Warming drawers store cooked food, keeping it warm and moist until you are ready to serve. Warming features in ovens and on cooktops also serve a similar purpose.

Dual element burners: Some electric ranges feature an inner ring for smaller pans and a large outer ring for larger pots and pans. A flick of the switch turns on the preferred size.

Bridge Element. An extra element between two main elements on a smooth-top cooktop that can be turned on to create a large surface for large pans such as griddles.

Adjustable oven racks allow you to adapt your oven to your particular cooking needs.

Multiple broil settings allow you to broil different types of food at optimal temperatures

Seamless or continuous grates allow you to easily slide heavy pots between burners without doing any lifting.

Optional Configurations. Some manufacturers allow you to customize their range cooktops with accessories such as grills, griddles, wok rings and more.

Hot surface indicator lights are available on some electric models alert you that a surface may still be hot even though it is powered off.

Large oven windows and lighting allow you to easily view your oven contents without opening the door.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Make sure it will fit!

Measure the space that you have available for your range. Know the height, width and depth of the area you want the new model to fit into.

If selecting a Gas Range you will need a gas hookup to a natural gas source or to a LP (liquid propane supply tank). You will need an electrical hookup for both types of ranges.

Posted by ArchAngelApplianceRepair at 10:26 AM 0 comments

Do It Yourself Disclaimer

Because we not only have our private blog but all our posts are shown on the Blue Ridge Now Forums and Blogs, we wanted to have our Do It Yourself Disclaimer printed. So, sorry to bore you folks, but here you go...

DIY DISCLAIMER:

You must be competent to carry out repairs, and must accept responsibility for your own and other people's safety.

We use all reasonable efforts to ensure that the information contained on our blog is correct and accurate.

No representations or warranties are made (express or implied) as to the reliability, accuracy or completeness of such information.

We therefore cannot be held liable for any loss arising directly or indirectly from the use of, or any action taken in reliance on, any information appearing on this website, which is given free of charge and in good faith.

If you need repair help please do not hesitate to call us. If you need DIY or Advice again, don't hesitate to call. We will not be held liable for your actions though. Keep this is mind. You are responsible for your own repair work.

Posted by ArchAngelApplianceRepair at 10:21 AM